Ingredients Experiences Wine-pairing Sea Change

Patrons at the Summer of Seafood Wine-pairing Dinner
Was that a hint of salt air on the breeze? With such an abundance of seafood set before each diner at the June 25 Wine-pairing Dinner at Ingredients Cafe, it was easy to imagine nearby White Bear Lake as one of its oceanic cousins. Chefs Ben and Tony provided a thrilling display of culinary finesse as they coaxed delicate seafood into the spotlight. Alongside each dish, The Wine Company’s Deb Hessburg, paired refreshing wines from around the world that enhanced each course’s subtle flavors.
The meal began on a high note and just continued to climb. The first course consisted of Olive Oil Braised Shrimp with Tomato, Capers, Dill and Mache. The delicate wild pink prawns were sweet and mild. Their warmth transferred the olive flavor to the fruit-sweet tomato from Twin Pine Farms. The wine, a 2004 La Vielle Ferme Rose from France, was also fruity and enlivened the flavors. Its hidden sharpness combatted the saltiness of the warm capers. My personal favorite was the second course: Duet of Seared Scallop and Sweet Crab Cannelloni with Cracked Honey Mustard Vinaigrette. The scallop was expertly seared with caramelized edges. It sat on a bed of sweet corn, chive and watercress.	A cell phone camera to the rescue! This picture does not do justice to the Olive Oil Braised Shrimp with Tomato, Capers, Dill and Mache.
The crab was encased in a cannelloni wrapper made of jicama, cut paper thin. Its apple-like texture and mild sweetness provided a fun crunch. Combined with the creamy filling, the cannelloni felt like a sample of fresh crab salad. A crisp 2005 La Playa Sauvignon Blanc from Chile cleansed the palate after each bite of crab. Deb said Chilean sauvignon blancs are “all the buzz” due in part to the increasing popularity and refinement of these South American vintages. The next course was a study in contrasts. The Togorashi Crusted Tuna (or Tangarashi, as a knowledgeable patron suggested) with Ginger Cucumber Salad and Mint Essence burned and cooled the mouth in turns. Togorashi is a Japanese chili powder consisting of chiles, hemp seed, seaweed and other savory flavorings. Its use on the Bluefin Tuna, a sweet fish, blew the socks off some diners who are used to a more “Midwestern” application of spices. “It’s truly spicy,” said Chef Tony, “I hope you enjoy that.” If the heat grew to be too much, all we had to do was nibble on the cucumber salad. The pureed mint also offset the heat dramatically. Deb was worried that her wine choice, a 2005 Cloudline Pinot Noir from Oregon, wouldn’t be strong enough to pair with the Togorashi. This is only the company’s second year producing a Pinot vintage, made with 100 percent Pinot Noir grapes. Its youthful fruitiness worked to its advantage, luckily, giving it a flexibility that easily matched the Togorashi’s fire.
All the excitement from the Togorashi served as a buildup to the fourth course’s star shellfish: Lobster. The diners broke into applause as the Butter Poached Lobster, Cauliflower Puree and Brussel Sprout Sautee with Lobster and Brandy Cream Sauce was set before them. The dish was beautiful in both form and flavor. The lobster claw and curl of tail was silken and rich, the brussel sprouts were robust – a good contrast for the lobster. Their bold flavor was tempered by being sauteed in some of the poaching butter. Underneath, the swirl of pureed cauliflower also was flavored with the butter. With so many creamy, sweet flavors, the slightly smoky brandy cream sauce re-awoke our tastebuds.	Butter Poached Lobster, Cauliflower Puree and Brussel Sprout Sautee with Lobster and Brandy Cream Sauce
The dish was quite a coup, really. The Wall Street Journal recently published an article about butter poached lobster, noting the recipe’s origination is attributed to the chef at the famous Napa Valley Restaurant, The French Laundry. Lately, other fine restaurants around the country have been attempting adding the dish to their menus. It looks like Chef Ben and Tony are in good company. The wine Deb chose was also in good company. The 2004 Verget Macon Villages from France had a very light oak flavor, allowing more fruit through. This straw colored wine was a great foil to the butter, and bolstered our moods even more.
After all the delicate slicing and coddled foodstuffs in the first four courses, it was a nice to be able to dig into a Blackberry Tart with Stone Fruit Salad and Twin Pine Farm Lavender Honey Ice Cream. It was so tangy and sweet, we all polished our plates clean. The ice cream had such a wonderful, delicate flavor that it felt like we were breathing in a fresh lavender flower’s perfume. The 2005 Errazuriz Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc from Chile was just sweet enough to match the sweetness of the tart without overdoing it. The peaches in the stone fruit salad were also enhanced by the syrupy vintage. It will be difficult for Chefs Ben and Tony to top this dinner, but why don’t you come back and see how they do next month? They are planning a Caribbean extravaganza for the July wine-pairing dinner at 6:30 p.m. on the 25th. We hope you can make it.