There was a hint of a Mediterranean sea breeze wafting through the dining room of Ingredients during the February 28 Wine-pairing Dinner. The tastes and stories that accompanied each of the five courses made the diners feel as if they were in the very heart of Italy.

Deb Hessburg of The Wine Company was a knowledgeable guide. Firsthand knowledge gained by visiting with growers and touring the vineyards enhanced her expertise.

As with every wine dinner, Chefs Ben and Tony took the essence of each dish and magnified its harmonious flavors.

At first look, my friend and I had trouble finding the “Italian” in the Antipasti course. A skewer of Grilled White Prawns sat on a bed of Watercress surrounded by Grapefruit wedges and a bright green Dressing made of Honey, Chili and Mint. Then, we took our first bite. The dressing transported us with its clean, sweet tastes. It was like a bright pesto with no heavy flavors.

Also, Chef Ben said the watercress had been picked just that noon at Twin Pine Farms, and its freshness made the whole meal feel young.

Deb paired a 2004 Zuani Vigne with the prawns. This lush white was made with Tocai Friulano, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon grapes. It is the only wine made at this winery, but bottled in two different ways. This form was rich and sweet in a way that played off the citrus in the grapefruit and the crispness of the watercress.

Deb Hessburg of The Wine Company tells the story behind the wine

The second, or Pesce course, featured Tuna Poached in Olive Oil with a Fennel, Tomato and Olive Salad and an Anchovy Vinaigrette. The edges of the rectangular cut of fish were opaque and quickly blended into a rich ruby red. Chef Ben said the tuna was cooked for 20 minutes in the oil over low heat. The end result was so comforting. The texture matched the chunks of tomato.

The fennel had been cooked down so the usually robust anise flavor was melted away, leaving just a mild richness. Also, the vinaigrette was created with mastery. The anchovies were neither fishy or salty. They simply added color and depth to the tang of vinegar.

A diner displays the perfectly poached tuna

This course’s wine was another white. This time, an Ottella Lugana 2004. It too had hints of butter to it, but with a crisper finish than the Zuani. It livened up the mild fish, and brightened the shreds of basil clinging to the tomatoes.

During the Primi course, things got serious. Centered in the middle of our plate was a single Ravioli filled with tender roasted Oxtail. It was pillowed by creamy Celery Root Puree and topped with bright green Fried Parsley.

Each component was mellow, but full of hidden flavors. The celery root was more starch than anything else, but the hint of celery came through, adding a savory tinge. The oxtail held secret spices that became more fully realized depending on how big a bite you took. And, the ravioli itself, had a perfect toothiness to it.

All these rich flavors were taken up a notch by the wine pairing, a 2001 Montellori Moro. It had a wonderful, almost candy-like bouquet, and the rich red liquid revealed tobacco. It hails from the Chianti region, but the winery mixed Cabernet grapes with their Sangiovese grapes, so it cannot wear the Chianti name. It does not need to, though. It is unique and can stand on its own.

Oxtail Ravioli on a bed of Celery Root Puree and Fried Parsley

By this point, many diners were ready to have the next course boxed and just save room for dessert, but those who did missed eating their Herbed Leg of Lamb as it was meant to be eaten. Rolled with a stuffing of lemon, garlic and shallots, the pink flavorful meat played off the Winter Greens and White Bean Stew with Pancetta that surrounded it. For one brief course, we were reminded that winter comes even to Italy. And the smoky pancetta made this a wonderful comfort food.

While we warmed ourselves with this dish, Chefs Ben and Tony reminded us of the proximity of spring by edging the plates in a swirl of very special Extra Virgin Olive Oil. Licked off the tine of a fork, this oil tasted like fresh green grass.

The sunshine promised in that oil was delivered in the wine. The Valle dell’Acate Cerasuolo di Vittoria 2002 came from the balmy island of Sicily off the toe of the Italy boot. This red wine was fruity and very full tasting.

Herbed Leg of Lamb and Winter Greens, White Bean Stew with Pancetta

Every course had so many sweet flavors in it, that the creamy and tart dessert was a welcome sendoff. The Goats Milk Panna Cotta with Balsamic Dressing, Raspberries and “Bones of the Dead” Cookies were each so pure in flavor that they were very soothing.

The panna cotta was a sublime, stiff custard made with gelatin and vanilla seeds. The cookies, a traditional sweet served around Halloween, were a lot like a biscotti, but with soft centers.

The Ascheri Gavi di Gavi 2004 served alongside the dessert was a lovely accompaniment, especially when tasted with the balsamic dressing.

Make plans now to join us for the March 28 wine-pairing dinner.

Goats Milk Panna Cotta with Balsamic Dressing, Raspberries and "Bones of the Dead" Cookies