In Minnesota, the ultimate hot weather foods seem to run along the lines of brats and fried fish from the lake. Sometimes, it can feel like we’ve forgotten about all the other foods available during this time of year.

The July 19 wine-pairing dinner at Ingredients Cafe was a wonderful reminder that there are other fish in the sea and beasts in the field. Chefs Ben and Tony put together a fun menu that gave a definite nod to comfort food that was light enough for a hot summer evening.

Jennifer Tome, of Grape Beginnings, prepared a wine list that was also homey. The six wines were from only three California wineries, and two of them are neighbors. In deference to the summer heat, Jennifer chose light, crisp varieties. In fact, the wines were almost all white – including the port served with dessert.

Grape Beginnings Jennifer Tome introduces herself

Jennifer welcomed everyone with a 2004 Dry Creek Vineyard Chenin Blanc from Clarksburg. She said that she likes to serve this wine first because it is just tart enough to satisfy your thirst on a hot summer night.

“If we were eating outside, I think we’d each drink a bottle of this,” she joked.

The first course was a lesson in simplicity – a single scallop sat on a sea blue plate next to a thicket of pea shoots dressed in balsamic vinegar. A diagonal wave of vanilla orange essence separated the two, adding a touch of sunshine to the rich diver scallop.

The 2004 Trentadue Sauvignon Blanc from Dry Creek Valley, was flowery fresh when paired with the scallop, and added a complication to the pure green flavor of the pea shoots.

The chefs then reminded guests that not all salads are green, nor do they need to have leaves in them. For the second course, guests were served a summer beet carpaccio with a quinoa salad ringed in chevre sabayon. The thin discs of red and golden beets fanned out across the wide plate. They were tangy, but still satisfyingly earthy. The sabayon was also tart, but milder than just chevre served by itself.  

Chef Ben explained that quinoa is one of the oldest grains known to be eaten by humans in Central America, and it has one of the highest protein contents. He served it mixed with crisp diced tomatoes and dressed in a honey and lavender sauce. It was crunchier than it looked, which made the whole dish a kaleidoscope of flavor and texture.

The 2002 Lambert Bridge Chardonnay from Sonoma County that was poured for this course added to the surprises. When tasted with the beets, the scent of rich, dark soil instantly filled your nose.

Summer Beet Carpaccio, Quinoa Salad

and Chevre Sabayon

Tired of eating walleye? Alaskan halibut is at its peak right now, too. It is a dense fish that cooks up a lot like chicken, and has a light flavor that marries well with many sauces. Chefs Ben and Tony decided to make this course a representation of the ultimate in cafeteria food, a la the movie “Napoleon Dynamite” – with “tots” and corn. This upgraded version, however, focused on subtle spicing rather than salt. The pan roasted halibut had a golden brown crust that matched the red hues of the smoked paprika polenta tots. Those were crispy on the outside and creamy grain on the inside, and they soaked up the sweet corn emulsion’s herbiness.

Again, the wine chosen to pair with the course was a magic key that unlocked hidden spices in the tots and halibut. Jennifer suggested we test the compatibility of the 2003 Dry Creek Vineyard Chardonnay from the Russian River Valley, with the food versus the previous chardonnay (if we had any left). At that point, the noise in the dining room increased as discussions broke out at every table over which wine went better.

When grilled, a spring staple like lamb chops can transcend the hot weather barrier. The final savory course brought three grilled lamb chops with confit of artichoke and potato terrine and a red wine glace.

If patrons were wondering why there seemed to be a longer gap than usual before this plate was served, it was because Chef Ben was creating the glace from the very wine we were about to sample.

The 2002 Dry Creek Heritage Zinfandel was fruity and buoyed the rich flavor of lamb, making the meal feel more appropriate for a sultry July dinner. It also added spice to the potato terrine – a fancier version of scalloped potatoes – which were creamy and infused with thyme. The artichoke hearts were flavorful simply from their long hours spent cooking in their own bit of wine – this time, a white one.

For dessert, what could be better than doughnuts? Chef Ben confessed this was his first time making these sugar sprinkled marvels, and one couldn’t ask for more. Like a life preserver, it floated on top of a mound of smooth cocoa pastry cream, surrounded by blueberries in a garnet red sauce.

Jennifer said the 2003 Trentadue Viognier Port she was serving was a rare treat because the winery only bottled about 150 cases. It was sunshiney yellow and tasted like fresh apple juice, which made the blueberry flavor of the sauce more pronounced and the nostalgia factor of the doughnut even greater.

As diners finished the last drops of sauce, one of the best magical moments happened: the guests lingered. Everyone seemed content just to sit and enjoy each other’s company, and that is always a sign that the meal hit home.

Watch for news about next month’s wine-pairing dinner scheduled for Tuesday, August 16.

Malted Sugar Doughnut and Blueberry Sauce

with Cocoa Pastry Cream